I have begun binging a show called “The Bear.” The language is a bit strong, but it is captivating.

The star of the show is the Chicago Italian Roast Beef Sandwich, so I have no idea how I never heard of it until today. Episode 1 is action-packed, replete with shot after gorgeous shot of roast beef being cooked, seasoned, doused in gravy, bestowed upon rolls, slathered in giardiniera, and enjoyed by all who cross its path.

The delight is not merely visual. There’s some top-notch writing and real tension to savor. For instance, somehow– and we don’t know why yet– one of their vendors delivered bone-in instead of boneless beef. That meant not only that they’d have to braise the beef, but also that it would take two hours longer than boneless beef. At one point it’s even revealed that some rolls haven’t quite been baked perfectly. But the real crisis comes in episode 3, when some onions disappear and an entire bucket of stock spills. No idea where it’s going, or where it even can go, from here.

Interestingly, the only references to the Chicago Dog so far have been on menus, receipts, and a six-foot inflatable hot dog with a smile on his face. It shouldn’t be too difficult for the writers to bring Chicago Dog into any of the story arcs; we already know that the restaurant where Italian Beef lives sells both items. But why string it out? Is Dog going to be brought along later in the season as a sort-of rival, or even flat out enemy, of Beef? Are they saving up for a season-ending cliffhanger? We’ll see.

There’s also some Emmy-bait about family, addiction, leadership, blah blah blah. Whatever. The Italian Beef shines, and earns its laurels.